Traditional Massage in Laos, Vietnam
After years of war and isolation, Southeast Asia’s most pristine environment, intact cultures and quite possibly the most chilled-out people on earth mean destination Laos is fast earning cult status among travellers. It is developing quickly but still has much of the tradition that has sadly disappeared elsewhere in the region. Village life is refreshingly simple and even in Vientiane it’s hard to believe this sort of languid riverfront life exists in a national capital. Then, of course, there is the historic royal city of Luang Prabang, where watching as hundreds of saffron-robed monks move silently among centuries-old monasteries is as romantic a scene as you’ll experience anywhere in Asia.
Away from the cities, there is so much more to see; the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khuang Province, the forested mountains of Northern Laos, the gothic limestone karsts around the backpacker-haven Vang Vieng and in the deep south, past the market town Pakse, is Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands), where the mighty Mekong spreads out and all the hammocks are taken.
The Lao wilderness is drawing travellers looking for nature, adventure or both. Kayaking, rafting, rock-climbing and biking are all available, but it’s the community-based trekking that is most popular because it combines spectacular natural attractions with the chance to experience the ‘real Laos’ with a village homestay – while spending your money where it’s needed most.
There is undoubtedly a growing tourist trail in Laos, but that just means there’s plenty of roads off Rte 13 where you can make your own trail. After all, half the fun of travelling here is in the travel itself – the people you meet, chickens you share seats with, wrong turns you take and lào-láo you drink with the smiling family at the end of the road less travelled.
An experience of a visitor to Laos, Vietnam, “My first Lao massage since arriving in Laos three weeks ago. I do not know why we have not been getting those every day, they run about $8.00 an hour. Although a lot of the techniques they use in the Lao massage are similar to techniques used in Thai massage, there are some big differences as well. First difference I noticed is that you do not strip down for a Lao massage, you get into a ‘massage outfit’. It resembles something the Genie from Aladdin would wear, big baggy pants and a matching shirt. The fabric is kind of rough, which kind of feels good on your skin when they massage you. In a Thai massage, you typically undress and lie under a sheet. I imagine the reason is that the people of Laos are much more sensitive to showing any skin. In Thailand, people dress pretty modern, jeans, tank tops, dresses, etc. Here in Laos, people still where traditional skirts and blouses. Most of the people exposing any leg are tourists (and most of them are out of shape!).
The second main difference is that the Thai massage was super rough, where as the Lao version was just pleasantly rough. In Thailand I had several women standing on me, pulling on my legs, pulling me backwards over their knees, twisting my body around. Of course, I thought it felt great – but then again a great massage to me is being smacked around with a 2×4. The Lao version was a little lighter on the wrestling, and more about getting deep in there with their fingers. I swear, those girls are 5’4, but they have a grip of iron.”
Another narration of a visitor to Laos ” I just came back from a trip to Vientiane in Laos – and there are many massage shops, particularly in the town center. The prices are very low, you can get a one hour massage starting around 25000 Kib (around $3), and maybe even cheaper if you look around more – for which I didn’t have the time.
But I’m not really someone who likes cheap massages – I am someone who likes GOOD cheap massages. And that’s a different. There are plenty of places all over the world where you can get cheap massages, but it’s those kind of “you get what you pay for” places, and in the end, you’re mostly happy when you’re through with it.
And rest assured, there are places like that in Vientiane too, and I’m gonna get to that a bit later. But for now, I want to talk about the GREAT massages I got there.
Vista Wifi Cafe is directly in the heart of the tourist centre, and there you can get a 1h oil massage for 35000 kib – and it’s great. My masseuse was “Mimi” (or Meme?). Small girl, very strong hands. Her movements are rather fast and hefty, not the slow gentle kind of oil massage – and usually I don’t like that. BUT in case of Mimi, I absolutely did like it – it was intense at just the right points, and afterwards I always felt great.
You can also use the internet in that cafe for free when you get a massage.
Then, there is another place just down the road (in direction of the river), on the same side of the street. I think it’s “Dao” massage? The prices here are rather upscale, and so is the clientel. Upscale by Laotian standards I should say though – a foot massage for 45000 kib. It’s located in a nice wooden teak house – at least the part upstairs. The foot massage was good, but not awesome. The woman didn’t speak a word of English, was around 50 and rather reserved. On a scale of 1 to 10, I’d rate her foot massage skills at 6. Given the prices, I’m not going to go for a foot massage again.
Another place is called “Happy Land”, and they do traditional massage. It’s a rather weird place I must say. When you walk in, it’s a cafe/bar. The reception ladies wear heavy makeup. I was kind of wondering whether this is a special massage place. I requested a massage, and a unhappy looking woman came out and brought me to a place to wash my feet and then into the massage room. She seemed to have a cold and was constantly coughing. The massage was… well, I got up early, paid the 40000 kib and walked away.
Then there is another massage shop in Rue Setthathilath, at the western end of it. Outside, you can see a mutlicolor neon-lit sign that says massage, and when you walk inside, it’s a rather dingy and choatic looking place. The reception woman was friendly though, and guided me inside the room were old massage mats where laid out, separated by think makeshift walls from each other. She started to massage me. The aircondition was too cold, but they couldn’t – or wouldn’t – adjust it. In the middle of the massage, she walked out and said that she had a headache to one of hear colleagues, who then continued to massage me rather mechanically and with an obvious lack of interest in her work – she seemed to just watch the time. I don’t remember exactly how much for the massage, I think 40000 kib.
On Rue Samsenthai, in the vicinity of Rue Chao Anou and Boulevard Khounboulom, not far from a small gas station, there was another massage place, but the sign read “MASSAGE & KARAOKE”, and I skipped that. I guess this is a sexy massage shop in Vientiane.
And then there was another place somewhere around Rue Samsenthai where I got a foot massage for 45000 kib. The shop was nice and clean, the staff very friendly, and the massage was good.”
Recommended resources:
- http://www.totallaos.com/en/lao-massage.html
- http://www.papayaspa.com/
- http://www.lonelyplanet.com/laos
Disclaimer
The Content is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.
