Allison Vest is a Canadian rock climber renowned for her accomplishments in bouldering and lead climbing. She is known for winning the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020. She also came first in Canadian Lead Nationals in 2019, and placed 10th in the World Beach Games in Doha, Qatar in 2019. In August 2019, Vest became the first female Canadian climber to a conquer a V13 boulder, successfully sending The Terminator in Squamish, British Columbia. This feat was documented in the film ‘The Terminator’, which premiered at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival on March 1, 2020.
In February of 2022, after taking an extended break from competitive climbing, Vest became the first Canadian woman to climb a V14 boulder, “Show Your Scars” in Ogden, Utah.
Born in St. Paul, Minnesota, Vest relocated to Canmore, Alberta with her family when she was seven. She retains dual citizenship. Living in the Canadian Rockies, she began competitive climbing at age 9, and joined the Canadian National Team as a teenager. Vest is nicknamed “Albatross” because of her 7+ ape index. At 6 ft 1 in (1.85 m), her wingspan is 7 inches (180 mm) longer than her height (5 ft 6 in (1.68 m)).
She began her studies at the University of Alberta and transferred to the University of British Columbia in 2015 to study kinesiology. She is sponsored by Black Diamond, Tension Climbing, Rhino Skin Solutions, and Hive Climbing. In her spare time, she was a youth team coach at the Hive Climbing Gym in Vancouver. Since spring 2020, she has lived and trained in Salt Lake City with friend and American climber Kyra Condie, and the pair began documenting their training on their shared TikTok account, @climbingroommates. In 2022, Vest and Condie launched the podcast “Circle Up with Allison and Kyra”, creating 30 minute episodes on climbing, motivation, body image and mindset.
Canadian Nationals performance
CEC Women’s Open Boulder and Open Lead Rankings
Rank
2020 Open Boulder Nationals – 1st
2019 Open Lead Nationals – 1st
2018 Open Boulder Nationals – 1st
Women Fitness President Ms. Namita Nayyar catches up with Allison Vest, an exceptionally talented Canadian rock climber, twice winner of Canadian Bouldering Nationals, here she talks about her fitness routine, her diet, her beauty secrets and her success story.
Namita Nayyar:
You were born in Saint Paul, Minnesota US, and relocated to Canmore, Alberta Canada. You live in the Canadian Rockies, began competitive climbing at the age of nine years. Later you became a professional rock climber. This propelled your career to the height where you have been at the top of the world as a leading rock climber player. Tell us more about this journey of hard work, tenacity, and endurance?
Allison Vest:
I’ve always climbed because I love it. I’ve lost that a little bit and gotten caught up in competitions and wanting to win at times, but at the end of the day I love trying hard and pushing myself. If I focus on that, all the other stuff seems to matter a lot less.
Namita Nayyar:
You won the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020. Tell us more about this winning and what had been a catalyst to achieve such spectacular winning in your rock climbing career?
Allison Vest:
Getting coaches really helped me accomplish these things. Jeff Thomson and Christian Core coached me in Vancouver BC and allowed me to rediscover the power of structured training.
Full Interview is Continued on Next Page
This interview is exclusive and taken by Namita Nayyar President womenfitness.net and should not be reproduced, copied, or hosted in part or full anywhere without express permission.
All Written Content Copyright © 2023 Women Fitness
Namita Nayyar:
You came first in Canadian Lead Nationals in 2019. In August 2019, you became the first female Canadian climber to conquer a V13 boulder, successfully sending The Terminator in Squamish, British Columbia. This feat was documented in the film ‘The Terminator’, which premiered at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival on March 1, 2020. . Elaborate more about this exceptional achievement of your professional rock climbing career?
Allison Vest:
This was the beginning of discovering how much I liked climbing outside. As opposed to competition, it is all about you and the rock and that’s it. Nothing and no one else matter in those moments. You’re allowed to be authentically yourself and focus on what’s immediately in front of you.
Namita Nayyar:
Since spring 2020, you have lived in Salt Lake City to live and train with friend and American climber Kyra Condie, and both began documenting your training on your shared TikTok account, @climbingroommates. Tell us more about this endeavor of yours?
Allison Vest:
Kyra qualified for Tokyo 2020 and then when the world shut down still had to train through it all. I moved to salt lake to be with her through that training process. We learned a lot about each other and pushed each other in new ways during that time.
Namita Nayyar:
What exercises comprise your fitness regime or workout routine you may wish to share?
Allison Vest:
A lot of my training is just climbing! But I also do a lot of climbing specific training like hang boarding.
Namita Nayyar:
Do you take a special diet or have a strict menu that you follow to remain healthy and physically fit?
Allison Vest:
I don’t eat gluten because I don’t digest it well but I’ll eat anything else!
Namita Nayyar:
You have glowing skin and gorgeous hair. Share with us your hair care and skincare routine.
Allison Vest:
During quarantine I learned that my hair doesn’t lie to be washed every day. I wash it closer to once a week now and it is much healthier and less frizzy. As far as skincare, I try to moisturizer and use SPF!
Namita Nayyar:
Advice and motivational words to the inspiring and budding Rock climbing girls, who all are your fans and shall like to know from you for their climb to the ladder of success in the field of Rock climbing?
Allison Vest:
Focus on loving it and learning from it every day and you’ll find your way from there.
Namita Nayyar:
How do you train your abs? One secret to your toned body.
Allison Vest:
Again it’s mostly just from climbing. Climbing is such a full body and core intensive sport that you work everything when you’re trying hard!
Namita Nayyar:
Five foods you absolutely love and five you keep to a minimum.
Allison Vest:
I love: oatmeal, boba tea, Brazilian cheese bread, chocolate, and salmon
I don’t love: gluten, tomatoes, and that’s it!
Namita Nayyar:
Five skincare myths.
Allison Vest:
I only have one! It’s a myth that you have to have perfect skin. The things you notice on yourself, most other people won’t ever notice!
Namita Nayyar:
Five athletic leisure brands you love to wear.
Allison Vest:
Adidas Adidas Adidas Adidas and Adidas.
Namita Nayyar:
Five travel destinations on your wish list.
Allison Vest:
Fiji, Greece, South Africa, Iceland, Switzerland
Namita Nayyar:
What do you wish to say about the website Womenfitness.net and the message for its visitors?
Allison Vest:
Keep inspiring people!
Namita Nayyar:
Today social media plays a vital role in putting your message across to your followers and fans. What is your message for the social media followers on Instagram?
Allison Vest:
Social media isn’t real life, follow people who are authentic and who inspire you. Try to distinguish between those people and the people who make you question yourself.
Allison Vest Social Media Presence
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/allisonvest/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/allisonmvest/
This interview is exclusive and taken by Namita Nayyar President womenfitness.net and should not be reproduced, copied, or hosted in part or full anywhere without express permission.
All Written Content Copyright © 2023 Women Fitness